Looking back up to the summit, we can’t quite believe we were there. Cristu Rei’s a tiny dot just to the right of the central peak. We expect the descent to be easier but the grass and rubble are slippery and our legs turn to jelly. Nine hours later, we’re back at the start with a visit to Abrau’s family ahead of us. They’ve prepared a ‘snack’ of rice, two meat dishes, fried sweet potato and vegetables. There’s Strawberry Fanta for the girls, and a bottle of sweet red Portuguese wine for me and Paul. Abrau, who carried Liz and Pip’s day packs most of the way, does well bridging the language and culture divide. After eating, we leave him to spend a rare night with his family.